DIY Gates

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Last Updated on Wed, 07 Apr 2010 21:29

Building a Fortress Gate

Fortress Gates are committed to quality and reliability to ensure your gate meets with the requirements of the discerning buyer.

Manufactured from 25mm x 25mm square galvanised steel tubing with sturdy welded joints, these frames won't rot or warp.
Your Fortress Gate Frame allows for different cladding to be added at a later date if trends should change.

Fortress Gates offer a variety of sizes and options to choose from, one of which is sure to suit your needs.

What you will need to assemble a Fortress Gate

METAL SCREWS - SUPPLIED WITH YOUR FORTRESS GATE

ELECTRIC or CORDLESS DRILL
(Preferably variable speed & reversible)

HEXAGON DRILL SOCKET - 5/16 or 8mm

DRILL BIT - 7/32 or 5.5mm

RUBBER MALLET
(or timber block and hammer)

HACKSAW or ANGLE GRINDER
(if cutting required)

TAPE MEASURE

STEP 1 - Constructing your gate.

* Determine width by measuring between gate posts, top and bottom.
* Horizontal ("H") rails should be 200mm less than gate width (to allow for 100mm each side of "E” frame).
* Cut "H" rails to suit if your gate is an odd size. e.g. "H" 700 makes a 900mm wide gate.

Note: Allow for clearance

SINGLE GATE - should be 10-15mm less than opening
DOUBLE GATE - should be 30-35mm less than opening

STEP 2

 

BEFORE ASSEMBLY:
* Determine the front of the gate, the hinge side (Hinges are fully reversible), left or right opening and placement of the latch.
* Place the latch side on firm level ground then bump horizontal rails (“H” rails) on with a mallet or heavy piece of wood. (Hammer must not be used directly onto frame).
* Place hinge side on top of “H” rails and bump into position.
* Now check for correct width, top, centre and bottom.

STEP 3

* "E" frames are fitted with reversible ball-bearing hinges.
* Balls must be at the top of both hinges. If hinges are on the wrong side of the gate, simply turn the "E" frame upside down putting the hinges in the correct place.
* Check to make sure the caps and balls are at the top of both hinges.

STEP 4 - (NON-BRACED GATES)

* Place the gate frame into position using a chock to gain the correct height.
* Screw hinge pin plate to the post using one screw only in each plate.
* Check the swing of the frame for clearance between the post and the ground.
* Ensure the frame is at the correct height for cladding.

If fancy pickets are used, allow adequate space above the frame.

STEP 4 - (BRACED GATES)

* The "HD” rail (horizontal with diagonal brace) is used for wide gates.
* Make sure you use the correct "HD” for the "E" frame, as the length and the angle of the brace is pre-set for the height.
* "HD” labels are colour coded to the corresponding "E" frame.

IMPORTANT
Diagonal should point upwards towards the latch side (not down). "HD” rails may be cut to size on the latch side only.

* Place the gate frame into position using a chock to gain the correct height.
* Screw hinge pin plate to the post using one screw only in each plate.
* Check the swing of the frame for clearance between the post and the ground.
* Ensure the frame is at the correct height for cladding.

If fancy pickets are used, allow adequate space above the frame.

STEP 5

Now screw your frame together with the screws supplied to prevent frame joint from moving while fitting cladding.

STEP 6

Fix timber cladding to gate frame (You can select from a wide range of timbers from LandscapeSupplies.com.au to fix to the steel frame using SELF DRILLING screws.)

* Mark and drill a 7/32 holes in the timber only.
* Using an electric drill and an 8mm (or 5/16) socket, place SELF-DRILLING screw in the hole in timber cladding - then screw SELF-DRILLING screw directly into steel frame.